First Thoughts: DeSano Pizza Bakery in East Hollywood

I'll just cut to the chase: the new DeSano Pizza Bakery in East Hollywood has been open a mere weeks, but is already a Top 5 Los Angeles pizza. That's right. Call it hyperbolic, call it superlative, call it lunacy, but that's my assessment after my inaugural visit to the Neopolitian pie haven out of Nashville. There simply aren't five other Southland pizzerias pumping out more consistent pies - especially not during their infancy stage like DPB. 

The overall pleasurability of the joint comes down to three factors...

THE SPACE

For LA pizza shop standards, DeSano's is massive. Taking over a former auto garage space, it has the feel of an expansive beer hall. Unlike other LA pizza meccas (cough, Mozza, cough, Milo + Olive, cough, others), you don't feel like your sitting in your neighbors' laps. Nor do you need a reservation. You shouldn't have to make a reservation to eat pizza. I don't care how good it is, pizza is not a reservation food. Part of the reason you won't ever need a res at DeSano's: THEY HAVE FOUR ovens. Not one. Not three. FOUR. (Actually, they have a fifth in the back just in case as well.) These four Acunto ovens pump out pizza at a franticly quick pace due to the almond wood, which burns high. Not just are the ovens from Italy, but they are also all, as is a customary homeland tradition, named after Italian cities and angels that protect them. They even before opening secured a priest to make a visit and bless the ovens. 

Also a bonus: they have a large, free, attached parking lot.

THE STAFF

I can't remember a friendlier staff at a new restaurant. Not force-smile-gun-in-their-back cordial. I mean actually happy to see you and introduce you to their new restaurant. A staff full of people pleased to hear you made the trek from Santa Monica to East Hollywood and who smile just because - not for a paycheck. From management to the bussers, DeSano's seems to have gone way out of their way to hire a genial staff and it really maximizes the overall experience. Put its Tennessean charmed roots and characteristic Italian hospitality in a blender. The result is DeSano's Pizza Bakery.

THE PIZZA

You can have the coolest space and friendliest staff in the world, but if a pizza joint doesn't deliver the 'za goods, it means nothing. DeSano's certainly delivers the goods - and then some. At this point I've been to so many restaurants in their first few weeks I've almost built in a given mulligan factor. Especially pizza places, as new pizzerias tinker and attempt to master the ovens. DBP had no such growing pains. We tried three pizzas (Margherita, San Gennaro and the Verdura), all perfectly cooked. Check out that leopard spotting on that upskirt shot. You simply do not see that sort of spotting many places in LA, let alone from a neophyte trying to work out the kinks that come with simultaneously handling four ovens. I recommend all three pies. The San Gennaro -- housemade salsiccia (Italian sausage), peppadews, buffalo mozzarella and carmelized onions atop a simple red sauce of crushed San Marzano tomatoes -- offers a nice spice that plays well with the crust's chewy, slightly sourdough tang. The Verdura -- a white pie of broccoli rabe, mushroom, cherry tomato, garlic and buffalo mozz -- was my dining partner's favorite of the trio due to the combination of sharp broccoli rabe and the sweetness of blistered cherry tomato.  As for the Margherita, it tasted so fresh. Especially the basil, which burst with flavor. In the pizza biz they say your Margherita is "your cheeseburger." The litmus test. DeSano's aced the exam.

Compared to other Neopolitian pizza shops, DBP also demonstrates a little less pretense. Although they kindly ask for no alterations, pizzas can be ordered in two sizes (compared to the normal pizzaiolo mantra, "This is the size. Deal with it, bro.") and they also offer a well-stocked accouterments bar of flavored oils, cheese, peppers and fresh garlic.  

CONCLUSION

Go there.

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DeSano's Pizza Bakery
4959 Santa Monica Blvd, East Hollywood
(Open Monday through Saturday, 11 am until the dough runs out)

Where To Eat After Seeing "Book of Mormon" at The Pantages

Outside of "So... when's the wedding?," the query I receive most frequently of late is:

"Where should I eat after 'Book of Mormon?'"

"Book of Mormon" is the massively successful satirical musical from the "South Park" dudes that has played on and off at The Pantages for the past year or two. And when it's on? It's packed. Sold out. Los Angelenos, myself included, can't get enough of the singing apostles. It's a legitimate question too to ask where to eat in that area because it's foreign territory to most. So foreign I receive the inquiry almost weekly right now as BoM has returned to Hollywood until mid-May. With that in mind, I thought I'd share my suggestions for a meal post-Pantages...

The Across Street Option: Wood & Vine
- Due to its location right across the street from the theatre entrance, Wood & Vine stands as the primo dining destination. Another reason you should do W&V: it's the best restaurant in the area. I mean, look at the chicken and waffles above. I mean, REALLY LOOK AT IT. You want that. I want that. Everybody wants that. W&V is much more than just chicken and waffles though. It's one of those few spots in LA that offers a very Hollywood feel (beautiful indoor and outdoor space) with really tasty grub and schmancy drinks at a fair pricepoint. Nothing on the menu hovers above $25 dollars, yet it still possesses that thee-ate-ur glitzy night out of on the town grandiosity to it. Highly recommended: the Butterscotch Pot de Creme and super late night Friday and Saturday Happy Hour. (((Make a reservation via OpenTable))) 

The Always Good, Albeit A Little Contrite At This Point Option: Katsuya
- By now, most people are sick of Katsuya. Not because it isn't delicious as all hell, -- their Crispy Rice with Spicy Tuna still takes it to another level -- but more people just find its once innovative cuisine now a little staid and bland. However, the Hollywood location is a mere block west of The Pantages and a great alternative to the probably mobbed Wood & Vine. Get the Yellowtail Sashimi with Jalapeno and the Miso Black Cod. (((Make a reservation via OpenTable)))

The More Casual Option: Village Pizzeria
- A select few of local critics complain about Village Pizza. They say the slices can be inconsistent and the pizza underbelly too tan. Well, I think those people have a point at times, but that doesn't mean VP still doesn't pump out some of the city's top and most enjoyable Brooklyn-style pizza pies. The pizzas come out floppy, hot and fresh just like you want them. Grab a beer or a cold soda and, like the original Larchmont location, the Hollywood Village Pizza offers something found at very few other Southland restaurants: a sense of neighborhood. There's just a comforting, homey, suburban feel to the spot. VP is a seven minute walk or a couple minute drive on Yucca from the theatre.

The Lady Likes Seafood Option: The Hungry Cat
- A Hollywood stalwart for years now, The Hungry Cat remains one of LA's top seafood meccas. The fun part about HC is you can go rather reasonable ($17 octopus and $23 Lamb 'n Clams, for example) or REALLY BIG ($147 multi-tier Hungry Cat seafood platter). Either way you go, you're in good hands in this very inviting space from acclaimed local chefs Suzanne Goin and husband David Lentz. Get the mussels. (((Make a reservation via Open Table)))

Feel Like A Burger Option: Stout
- Work up a burger hunger watching all those actors run around and sing for two hours? Go to Stout on Cahuenga. Their namesake burger is one of the best in the entire city and they also offer a superlative tap beer selection.

Whiz Serving Cheesesteaks And More to Koreatown

Ever go to your place of worship and pray for better cheesesteaks in LA? Yeah, me neither. But that doesn't mean the Southland doesn't deserve some solid Philly 'steak shops. Luckily, Jimmy Han and Wes Lieberher agree and this weekend they officially opened Whiz, a new Koreatown neighborhood sandwich spot specializing in the Brotherly Love delicacy. Akin to what the dudes over at Top Round are doing for LA roast beef, Jimmy and Wes plan to do for local cheesesteak. And, just like their first venture, Beer Belly, the co-owner and co-owner/chef aspire to serve classics - with a slight touch of modernity. 

The new Ktown joint features five cheesesteak options (ranging from a classic Philly Steak to a Jalapeno Jack with housemade jalapeno jack cheese "whiz"), as well as a Buffalo Bleu Chicken Cheesesteak (that I must try immediately), hot and cold hoagies, wings and fries. Fret not, purists: all the cheesesteaks come on Amoroso rolls. 

If you live in the area they will deliver. And if you don't? It's conveniently Wiltern-approximate, making it an ideal spot to pop in for a quick meal before seeing your girlfriend's favorite band.

Also a bonus, the cheesesteaks look pretty legit:

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Whiz

3901 W. 6th Street, Koreatown, LA

11:30 am - 9 pm daily

BOGO: Coffee Bean (and Starbucks) Buy one, Get one on Valentine's Day

Valentine's Day is sort of a rip off. Flowers, dinner, chocolates, stuffed animals. All overpriced - for one special day! Luckily, the kind people at your local Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf at least want to ensure your coffee break this V-day won't, well, break the bank. On Friday, all Coffee Bean locations will offer Buy one, Get one Free on their entire menu. All day.

Find your nearest CB here.


Also nothing dumb about this: Starbucks is sharing the love as well - kinda. They are offering BOGO on select lattes Friday from 2-5 pm.

DeSano Pizza Bakery Invading East Hollywood Starting Today

Photos Courtesy of Marie Buck

A few years back Pizzeria Mozza started an unwanted trend amongst quality LA pizza joints: smaller is better. Mother Dough and Milo + Olive, amongst others, followed suit. Almost all of the city's enticing new pizza spots were opening in teeny spaces. Then 800 Degrees bucked the trend with their Westwood and Santa Monica locations and it appears the new DeSano Pizza Bakery, open today, wants to do the same in East Hollywood.

The Nashville import (now that's something you didn't expect to hear about a promising pie shop, huh?), serving "Pizza Tradizionale Di Napoli" ("traditional Napoli pies," duh), has taken root on Santa Monica Blvd near Vermont Ave with a whopping 7,000 square feet that comfortably seats 120. The Neapolitan pizza bakery also boasts FOUR 10,000 pound/900 degree wood-burning ovens - which means, despite the massive space, guests won't be waiting too long for their 'za. Open for lunch and dinner, DeSano offers individual and sharing- sized pizzas (like the San Gennaro - sausage, peppadew, garlic, carmelized onions and buffalo mozz), calzones, panuozzo sandwiches (similar to 800 Degrees), antipasta and salads.

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DeSano Pizza Bakery

4959 Santa Monica Blvd, LA

11:30 am - 11 pm daily

(Free parking in attached lot)

First Thoughts: Roadhouse LA, Open This Week

Roadhouse LA is an acclaimed New York chef's take on modern, upscale barbeque, with touches of Mediterranean and shades of fine dining - and is located in a comedy club. Yep, you read that correctly: the newest venture from Umami mastermind Adam Fleischman, who this time teams with former Hill Country/Fatty 'Cue Chef Robbie Richter, is located in the fore of Melrose's Improv. It might just be Fleischman's most brash undertaking yet. The man may rapidly be morphing into LA's Danny Meyer (he has two other openings THIS QUARTER - including the chocolate fried chicken joint, Choco Chicken), but none of his previous ventures included such peculiar ingredients, in and out of the kitchen. Roadhouse LA is no bunt. They're pointing like the Babe and swinging for the friggin' fences.

The peculiarities aside, I know what you're thinking: GOD DAMNIT, SHUT UP ALREADY! IS THE FOOD ANY GOOD OR WHAT? Well, I would say, yes. Mainly.

First, let's start with... the starters. Definitely order the House-Cured Hunan Bacon wraps. Both cured and smoked in house, this dish really demonstrates Roadhouse's range by melding three cuisines -- Thai, American BBQ and bacon cuisine -- by putting a twist on a classic Asian lettuce wrap dish. But this one comes packed with szechwan peppercorn-spiced bacon! And rice noodles and a muted-spiced tiger salad. A must order for a bacon lover. Also recommended: the Chicken Wings. Now, I know what you're thinking: Chicken Wings? Ahh, real original! I'm just bored saying, 'chicken wings.' I get that. I rarely order chicken wings. Roadhouse LA's are worth ordering though. We're talking barbecued whole wings (which seem to be so in vogue these days -- either because people are getting lazy cutting them down or they actually want to provide more meat, you decide) marinated in a ginger molasses-fish sauce combo. The result? Tasty, delicate wings. My dining partner proclaimed them her new favorite L.A. wings. It also comes with a delicious and cooling side celery and parmesan salad that reminds you you aren't at your alcoholic Southern uncle's favorite bbq joint. They do things with a little more deft in these here parts.

Now, for the entrees. I'll kick off with the two entrees I'd steer away from: the Brooklyn Brisket "sandwich" and the chicken. I love brisket. It's usually my favorite thing on a BBQ spot's menu. I feel like Roadhouse went a little too cutesy with their presentation though. It's a "make your own" sandwich plate that comes with meat, housemade cheddar fondue, Texas toast and all the accoutrements. They don't give you a ton of meat though - and it costs $19. If I'm spending $19 on a BBQ Brisket sandwich,  from Brooklyn or from Rancho Cucamonga, how about you take the time to make it for me? And fill it with meat. Similarly, the Royal Jerk Chicken entree, which is award-winning, wasn't bad. But it didn't stick out like the Chicken Wings. I'd stick with the poultry appetizer.

What you must order: THE LAMB. Order it. Shut up, you don't like lamb! That's a stupid thing to say. And even if you do, ORDER THE LAMB. It was succulent. And tender. Tender like a kindergarten teacher. Roadhouse serves both the shoulder and rib. It's seasoned with a ton of Mediterranean spices that I can't spell and you wouldn't be able to pronounce. And then smoked for ever. The result is some of the best lamb, BBQ or otherwise, this dude's ever had. Also recommended orders: the full-bodied, smoky and porky Pork Ribs (that come with sesame seed-studded watermelon) and the Crispy Pig, which is exactly what its name hints. Although I didn't sample it upon my first visit, the Burnt End Patty Melt sounds enticing as well.

So, there you have it. Lots of hits and only a few misses at the new Roadhouse LA. I really admire Fleischman/Richter for really going out on a limb with this project/cuisine. At a comedy club no less. Certainly the food is a major step forward for The Improv and a great addition to the Melrose neighborhood. It will be interesting to see how locals and stand-ups react.

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Roadhouse LA
8162 Melrose Avenue

Best Oscar Party Desserts Come From Across The Country... Again

I know I must sound like a broken record at this point, but I remain befuddled why LA bakeries don't care about Academy Awards-related desserts. They give it a wimpish attempt - but they just don't put their back into it. This despite the fact that your best friend, neighbor, dentist, psychologist and that one guy you're Facebook friends with but don't remember all host Oscar parties. Parties they normally attack with a fairly sizable budget. Parties prime for expensive, special, golden desserts.

Southland sweets shops simply don't think the extra effort is worth it. Which, once again, is fine with Eleni's New York, who just rolled out their 2014 Oscar cookie line and, like always, it's pretty rad. There's three collections on their signature (nut free/kosher) sugar cookie: Best Actress, Best Actor and Best Picture. The actor categories feature eery likenesses of the nominees; the Best Picture set offers various cookies in the shapes of the movies' plots (e.g. pill bottles from "Dallas Buyers Club"). Luckily, Eleni's delivers cross country and the cookies come sealed fresh in a nifty gift box. Get them now and be the cool kid at the Oscar party this year. Then win the pool and be the coolest kid at any party.

Get Umami Burger for Only $5 Tomorrow

Tomorrow, Wednesday, February 5th, local burger phenomenon Umami Burger turns five years old. SUCH an adorable five-year old, am I right? To celebrate the big 5-no zero, all Umami locations will be offering their namesake burger, The Original, for a mere $5. This includes all SoCal, NorCal, NY and Florida restaurants. The Umami Burger Truck will also roam around Los Angeles all day tomorrow slinging the $5 burgers. Feel like a different burger tomorrow? No problem. They'll give you a voucher to return for a $5 Original.

Also note, The Original protein-style doesn't suck that much either.

L'Assiette To Serve Steak Frites - And ONLY Steak Frites

Photo Courtesy of Marie Buck

When I visited New York City this past fall I tasked a buddy of mine with pinpointing a "lunch good enough to stand as my only NYC lunch of the year." He immediately suggested Le Relais de Venise, which only serves the simplest of menus: Steak Frites (steak and fries). That's it. You sit down, you get a salad with a classic French mustard dressing, followed by the main course, the cherished steak and golden pommes with a traditional peppercorn-y sauce atop. That's the entire menu. Even more brilliant: the main course is broken into TWO courses, so you eat half, they clear your plate and then return with the second half of Steak Frites. It was so delicious, simple and brilliant I could not believe there wasn't an LA equivalent.

Well...

The NSA must have been tapping me that day because late this month, L'Assiette (no connection to Le Relais) will open on Melrose with the identical concept. The brasserie will serve Steak Frites, Steak Frites and Steak Frites. And Steak Frites. And like Le Relais, each main course will be split in half for optimal sirloin and fry consumption. Unlike it's New York counterpart though, L'Assiette ("the dish" in French) will offer salad OR soup as a starter, and will come in slightly cheaper at $25 per SF order. The Melrose restaurant also plans to offer cheeses and desserts. 

There are very few dishes more satisfying than a superb Steak Frites. Realistically, if L'Assiette, at that pricepoint on Melrose, can serve the French classic at anything hovering near above average they really have a chance to become a hit. 

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L'Assiette

7166 Melrose Avenue, LA  

(Opening late February 2014)

The Good Cookies of Cookie Good Coming to a Good Santa Monica Location

It's been said by all the renown economists throughout the years without debate. John Keynes. Hayek. Greenspan. They all whole-heartedly agree, "A good cookie is worth its weight in gold." 

While no economist ever actually said this ever, I'm pretty positive they would, if they had been asked. A good cookie can pretty much end a war, so I've always wondered why the fair city of Santa Monica lacked a true cookie shack. A place you could just pop in and turn that frown upside down. Or a solid go-to when you accidentally walk in on your boss in the bathroom and feel you have to send him something by the dozen to improve your future at the company... Apparently the fine denizens of local pop-up fave, Cookie Good, agreed. This Spring they will open their first brick and mortar at 2448 Wilshire Blvd, next to Wilshire restaurant. The 1,400 square foot space will feature a small retail area up front and then a large glass wall highlighting the kitchen. 

The new Cookie Good will continue to serve their most popular cookies like Birthday Cake, Red Velvet and (the beautiful specimen pictured below) Caramel Pretzel Chocolate Chunk, as well as brownies, bark and biscotti. Here's their expansive cookie menu.

Cookie Good should open near the corner of Wilshire and 25th in 3-4 months.