|Photo Courtesy of Marie Buck|
UPDATE (3/13/14) - L'Assiette officially opens on Melrose Thursday, March 20th.
When I visited New York City this past fall I tasked a buddy of mine with pinpointing a "lunch good enough to stand as my only NYC lunch of the year." He immediately suggested Le Relais de Venise, which only serves the simplest of menus: Steak Frites (steak and fries). That's it. You sit down, you get a salad with a classic French mustard dressing, followed by the main course, the cherished steak and golden pommes with a traditional peppercorn-y sauce atop. That's the entire menu. Even more brilliant: the main course is broken into TWO courses, so you eat half, they clear your plate and then return with the second half of Steak Frites. It was so delicious, simple and brilliant I could not believe there wasn't an LA equivalent.
The NSA must have been tapping me that day because late this month, L'Assiette (no connection to Le Relais) will open on Melrose with the identical concept. The brasserie will serve Steak Frites, Steak Frites and Steak Frites. And Steak Frites. And like Le Relais, each main course will be split in half for optimal sirloin and fry consumption. Unlike it's New York counterpart though, L'Assiette ("the dish" in French) will offer salad OR soup as a starter, and will come in slightly cheaper at $25 per SF order. The Melrose restaurant also plans to offer cheeses and desserts.
There are very few dishes more satisfying than a superb Steak Frites. Realistically, if L'Assiette, at that pricepoint on Melrose, can serve the French classic at anything hovering near above average they really have a chance to become a hit.
7166 Melrose Avenue, LA(Opening late February 2014)